What is the difference between gold plated, gold plated and real gold?

You see the terms everywhere on jewelry labels and webshops: gold plated, gilded, gold filled or solid gold. They are often used interchangeably, while the differences are significant — for your skin, your budget, and the lifespan of your jewelry. At Petit Bonbon, we consciously work with specific materials and are happy to honestly explain what you are wearing.

The 5 terms explained

Gold plated — thin layer, affordable

Gold plated means that a very thin layer of gold is applied to a base metal (brass, copper or silver) via electrolysis. The layer is usually only 0.05 to 0.5 microns thick. Affordable and beautiful, but somewhat more susceptible to wear — especially with daily use or contact with water, sweat, and perfume.

Gilded — general term, check carefully

Gilded is the general Dutch term for a gold-colored coating. Please note: this is not always the same as gold plated. In practice, "gilded" is sometimes used for jewelry with a thicker gold layer than standard gold plated. The difference is in the layer thickness — so check carefully, as quality varies greatly per brand.

• Gold plated: a layer of gold on another metal (usually brass or silver). Affordable and beautiful, but somewhat more susceptible to wear.
• Gilded: a general term for gold-colored coating. This is not always gold plated — so check carefully.
• Solid gold (14k or 18k): entirely gold, lasts a lifetime. More expensive, but very durable and hypoallergenic.

Gold vermeil — gold on silver

Gold vermeil is a luxurious variant: a layer of gold (at least 2.5 microns) applied to a sterling silver base (925). Because the base metal is silver, vermeil jewelry is hypoallergenic and wears less quickly than standard gold plated. A more sustainable choice for those who appreciate silver but seek a warm golden color.

Gold filled — thick layer, long lifespan

Gold filled is not a coating but a mechanical bond: a thick layer of solid gold (at least 5% of the total weight, usually 14 karat) is fused with a brass core using heat and pressure. The result is a piece of jewelry that, with proper care, lasts 10 to 30 years, is water-resistant, and shines as warmly as solid gold — at a fraction of the price.

Solid gold (14k or 18k) — lasts a lifetime

Solid gold jewelry consists entirely of a gold alloy (14 or 18 karat). They never discolor, are completely hypoallergenic, and retain their value. The major disadvantage: the price. A pair of solid gold earrings can easily cost hundreds of euros.

Overview: what is each layer worth?

• Gold plated: layer thickness 0.05–0.5 microns · lifespan 6–12 months with daily use
• Gilded (qualitative): layer thickness 0.5–2 microns · lifespan 1–2 years
• Gold vermeil: layer thickness min. 2.5 microns on silver · lifespan 2–5 years
• Gold filled: min. 5% gold weight · lifespan 10–30 years
• Solid gold: entirely gold · lifespan a lifetime

Petit Bonbon's choice: gilded brass

At Petit Bonbon, we work with gilded brass — a solid brass core coated with a high-quality gold layer via galvanization. This gives a beautiful, warm shine that lasts longer than standard gold plated, at a fair price. Our clasps are also 100% nickel-free and lead- and cadmium-free, and comply with the European nickel directive.

We consciously choose this material because it offers the best balance between quality, comfort, and affordability — and with the right care, it will last for years.

Which material do you choose?

For daily use with a fair price-quality ratio, gilded brass or gold vermeil is the smartest choice. Do you wear a piece very intensely and never want to doubt it? Then consider gold filled. Solid gold is the ultimate investment for an heirloom.

In any case, avoid cheap unlabeled gold plated if you have sensitive ears — the thin layer wears quickly, and the base metal can cause a reaction.

Care tip

Regardless of the material: take off your jewelry when in contact with water, sports, and perfume. Store them dry and separately. More tips can be found in our blog about caring for handmade jewelry.

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